The first time reading Garrison's book I just glanced over the chapter about splicing strips together. I did not see any immediate need for splicing. My strips were always long enough for the taper I was making. I did not have to make a splice. When I got into nodeless construction, I went back and read this chapter with a lot more interest. I made my splicing block and started splicing. I got satisfactory results, most of the time, but not always. I would always have a couple of splices that I was not satisfied with. I would remake these strips until I got them right. I then started paying a lot more attention to each detail of the splicing process in order to make good splices, each and every time. In doing so, I have also gone back and read Garrison again and can now comprehend what he was trying to convey. There is a definite method to the madness and it is definitely not a hit or miss operation. Now that I have just completed 2 more nodeless rods with over a hundred splices without a bad splice, I feel that I can pass on my insights and a few tips on how to make good splices each and every time.
The key to making good splices is to insure that each strip sits vertically in the splicing block and that the splice surface is perpendicular to it.
First: Insure the splicing block is "true". Check the sides of the slot that holds the strip. They should be parallel to each other. Check the planing surface. It should be flat and perpendicular to the slot. One side of the form cannot be higher than the other. If not, then true up the form. This normally needs to be done only once.
Second: Prepare the strips to be spliced. Each strip needs one flat surface to make it sit flush and vertical in the splicing block. Plane the soft white pith off the back of the strip fro the entire area that will sit in the splicing block. You will notice that a number of strips will have small ridges in the pith and that they will cause the strip to sit crooked n the block if not removed. It is very important to have a flat surface when you tighten the splicing block, since the enamel side is slightly curved. A Couple of passes with your plane accomplishes this.
Third: Place the strip in the block. Insure that the end of the strip sticks out at the top of the block. I make sure that I have between 1/8 and 1/4 inch sticking out on the bottom side of the strip tip. When I finish planing the splice, I find that I have a nice feathered edge. You get a blunt edge if the end of the strip doesn't stick completely out. Tighten the block until the strip is firmly held.
Fourth: Plane the strip flat with the top of the block. Start planing the tip of the strip first and finally getting down to making long passes to get the strip planed flat. In a wooden block you will need to make a few passes over the top of the block with a fine mill bastard file to insure the strip is perfectly flat. With a metal splicing block a few extra light passes with the plane accomplishes the same thing.
Fifth: Glue up the strips to be spliced and clamp. The important thing here is to marry up the strips so the enamel on each strip is flush with the other. I have found the "best tool" to accomplish this is my fingers. I wipe away excess glue and "feel" the splice to insure flushness. I can often feel an offset that I cannot see. I also insure that the width of the splices are equal to the strips being spliced. I use 3 - 1" spring clamps to clamp the splice. I clamp the middle of the splice and then one side and then the other. They allow you to easily make adjustments until you get the enamel surfaces flush to each other. I have used binding cord and have had gotten good results but the clamps are easier to use and faster. A word on clamps. I have bought both bargain clamps and good Pony brand clamps. Get the Pony clamps. They just seem to grip so much better than the cheap ones.
Sixth: Dress the splice after the glue has dried. First plane the bottom flat again. Normally one strip is thicker than the other and there is excess glue that has squeezed out. Then plane the sides even with the rest of the strip. Lastly, take a fine mill bastard file and lightly smooth the enamel side of the strip. This will knock off any excess glue. This completes the splice.
Although my explanation of the process seems long, I have found that I can easily create a complete strip for a section for a section of a nodeless rod in about 15 minutes. There is usually 3-4 splices per. I use this figure for planing my time.
I hope the above explanation provides additional insight into making good splices. If someone follows the above procedures and has a sharp plane (always) they should be able to create good splices on a regular basis.
